Near the roof of Provence...

A gorgeous winter's day brought me to Mont Ventoux on a reconnaissance walk, putting together a self-guided holiday on the roof of Provence. The photo below is was taken from Mont Serein, at the end of the walk, with the last rays of sun highlighting the bare summit.

There hasn't been snow here for a while, and the last of it is quickly melting away...

From Mont Serein, at 1400m, on a clear winter's day such as this one, the entire chain of the Alps is visible.

I began my walk at 700m in altitude, on a logging road through the pine forest. The pines in the photo below are Austrian black pines, planted 150 years ago during reforestation.

The mornings are crisp up in altitude. Fearing a cold day I brought not only my gore-tex jacket but also a down jacket, stuffed into my backpack. I didn't wear either, sticking with a simple polar fleece all day...

Nearing the end of the walk, approaching the "ski resort" of Mont Serein, some patches of leftover snow still carpeting the slopes:

In the beech forest, one of the very few specimens that survived the intense deforestation of Ventoux over the centuries. Only a few dozen of these "relic" trees continue to grace the slopes:

Nearing Mont Serein, cutting it close with the setting sun:

Moi!

What a wonderful walk, on a beautiful winter's day: didn't cross a soul over 5 hours of walking, crisp mountain air, gorgeous views, and the ever-present Provençal sun. And they pay me for this?

from Malaucène to Vaison la Romaine

It doesn't feel much like winter. With temperatures flirting with 20°C, a slight Mistral headwind, and a beautiful Provençal sun, I set out from the town of Malaucène for an 18km walk to Vaison la Romaine. This stage marks the final walk of Walk Inn's weeklong self-guided tour of Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail. Speaking of the latter, the tooth-like limestone chains of the Dentelles are clearly visible in the photo below, with the tiny village of Suzette (and its population of 99) also visible here:

From the highest point of the walk, at the Pas du Loup, in the heart of the wild garrigue (shrub land of aromatic herbs, boxwood, and sparse aleppo pines and evergreen oak). The limestone breach provided shelter from the Mistral wind as I faced south and bathed in the sun, and ate my not-so-Provençal peanut butter and jelly sandwich...

About two thirds of the way through the walk the hamlet of Le Crestet appears, a tiny cluster of limestone buildings and cobbled streets set on a high perch, overlooking the valley below. Normally the "Panoramic" bar here provides a wonderful ice cream and coffee break, complete with one of the best views in Provence, but hélas, it's winter, and the bar is closed...

Le Crestet, through the branches of a truffle oak:

Mont Ventoux looms in the distance, and only tiny dots of snow seem to grace the north face of the mountain today (the white at the top is bare limestone, not snow). Quel dommage for the ski resort up there...

Reaching Vaison from behind, the silhouette of its medieval castle protecting the town:

In the heart of Vaison, the cathedral and the setting sun:

From Buoux to Lourmarin

Today's reconnaissance walk took me into the heart of the Luberon Mountains, starting from the Seguins hotel in Buoux. The clouds remained low, sweeping through the hills, a rarity here, giving these Mediterranean mountains more of an alpine feel.

Not yet written in our arsenal of hikes through the Luberon, today's walk will be used for a custom-made walking holiday for a group that contacted us through the wabsite.  

And as usual, during my winter walks, I have the hills to myself. These past few days have been mild, temperatures in the high teens (celcius!), a real pleasure to walk.

The tracks crisscross along the crest, a mix of forestry roads and walking paths leading every which way through the Luberon. A truffle oak is in the foreground of the picture but I didn't check whether it was harbouring a winter truffle (no dog or pig at my disposal!).

The town of Lourmarin, and the fading sun above its church, weaving through the low-lying clouds...